Perula to Boca De Iguanas

Up early for a long walk to the end of the beach at Perula. Lots of interesting hotels, bars, etc, but very empty. Tourist season is closing down.

Picking up my email – lots of small issues to deal with but nothing major. Work mode now officially off.

Spent a few great hours body boarding and body surfing some small surf then jumped in the car to continue our journey south on the coast.

Stopped briefly at Hotel Carreyes (a Starwood Hotel) naively thinking that we could stop in for breakfast.

We were DENIED entry (could it be our dust-covered Tsuru rental gave us away as people who couldn’t even afford breakfast there?). Thus began the jokes about being VIPs traveling incognito in a rented Tsuro. From the spots on the road where you can see into Carreyes, it looks *amazing.

Stopped in at Tenacatita, a small primarily Mexican day spot filled with bars and restaurants. The small bay to the north harbors some great secluded camping and snorkeling opportunities. It’s a beautiful area albeit a bit trashy.

Camped now at Boca de Iguanas. The town itself is almost non-existent, consisting of just a few servicios. The beach itself is beautiful. Had a nice afternoon session with some head high, violently crashing waves.

Shared a simple dinner of aguacate, tomate, limon, tostadas, and cervezas watching wave after wave roll onto the beach, nearly empty of people.

La Manzanilla lies perched on a hillside at one end of the bay, the other blocked by a craggy cliff marked with a shrine in a small cave. Some fishermen happlessly cast nets into the surf as the last light ekes away. Camping at the very end of the beach with thuderous surf scouring the cliff in the background. Tomorrow – La Manzanilla.

Penita -> Perula

Awoke to soaking wet tents and gear. Seafog rolled in during the night. Restful sleep to the nonstop thundering chorus of the break. Tents had inadvertently blocked the crab highway, introducing an unwelcome obstacle in their massive commute from the tops of the dunes to the sea.

Headed south from Penitas to the small beack community of Perula which – despite all the tourist hotels – feels almost deserted. Hard to imagine what live is like in these little beach towns during the *very* low season. We are the only guests at a local hotel, with a 3rd floor room overlooking a huge, gently sloping beach that extends almost as far as the eye can see.

We spend the afternoon eating grilled camerones and drinking cervezas then a few hours in the surf.

The pet parrots in the courtyard of the hotel settle down at dark but we continue our converstaion outside our room over “New Mix” accompanied by the sound of the waves.

Hard to imagine a more perfect day.

Playa Penitas

Writing this in the last light of the day. Now camped on Playa Penitas 100 KM south of P.V. Muy bonito!

Large, empty, half moon beach. Some new palapas were constructed in the waning hours of the afternoon in preparation for the upcoming Easter festivities. One of the locals was very friendly – even inviting us to sleep under his palapa – we declined, given the rather strong smell of trash coming from it…

Serious sea fog coming in off the ocean tonight. Visible layer of moisture. Everything is already soaked…

Recap:
Left PV early to pick up groceries. Drove south to Playa Mayto, a huge deserted beach with rather frightening undertow/rip. Continued south to a small picaresque fishing village. Beers and filletes for a late lunch.

Travel day

Back up to PC late after some yoga tips from CL. Spent all night packing. 8 inches of new snow in PC overnight.

Barely made the 7:15 AM flight to Denver where I met up with Stan and Sarah. Arrived in Puerto Vallarta without incident, negotiated the first shucksterism while renting the car — a rather strong pitch to visit a separate time-share pitch. The amount crept upwards to $200 dollars + breakfast.

Did the usual first night drinking/walking. The streets of PV are packed with beet-red tourists.

Tomorrow – heading south (or maybe to the time share pitch…)