Jalisco, Mexico (03.30.2006 – 04.07.2006)

I spent the last week traveling along the Jalisco Coast of Mexico with my traveling companions Stan and Sarah. Camped on the beach, visited many small, picturesque villages, ate lots of seafood and drank many cervezas, and shared many laughs.

Now en route back to denver from P.V. I’m bummed to be heading “home”, all the more so by all of the obnoxious tourists at the airport. Definitely an element in me that felt like dashing out of the airport, leaving my bags, heading back to sayulita to hang out, surf, work on my spanish.

Emailed S + S during a four hour beer soaked layover in Denver, bemoaning the excessively organized state of the U.S., the lack of life, vitality.

Sarah replied that she and Stan had the exact same conversation on the way home. They had stoped for bad chinese food in a restaurant filled with unhappy people. She said it best: “Joyless Mediocrity”. It’s amazing how quickly we fal back into the trap.

Back in the US now weight feeling heavy on my shoulders… Where is the chaos? Where is the heat? The blaring horns, the irregularity of life? Everything is so scripted here.

Playa de Gafas Perdidos

Up way before dawn. Sat on the beach to watch the day appear. The beach is pitted with crab burrow bomb craters, 9/10 of which face the shore, 1/10 inland. Hmm…

Yoga sun salutations followed by a fun boogie boarding session with some big, BIG closing waves. One of which displaced my glasses which were gone instantly.

Due to this we rename Boca de Iguanas, “Playa de Gafas Perdidos”, or G.P. for short. Sigh.

Hop on the road heading north toward Puerto Vallarta. So sad to have stopped our southern migration. Quickstop at Tomatlan for pollo asado, the first of the trip. There is deathly ill looking cat laying in near our table. I hope it isn’t a sign.

Arrive in the quaint yet heavily gringo-ized town of Sayulita around 4 PM. Find a nice but precious B+B right in town ~ $140 USD/night.

Showers/beers then fish tacos by the central square. I can see myself kicking it here for awhile. ¿Es possible?

They were there…

A little vignette from Boca de Iguanas, inspired by a couple camped at Boca…

They were there they day we arrived and they were there the day we left. They are probably still there as far as I know.

I could never tell if they were natives or fellow travellers. All I really knew is that they had what we all wanted. We gradually came to know them, not by name, and not even by face. Chance encounters in the local market barely evoked even a glimmer of recognition. Oh but I knew them.

You CAN go back

Barre de Navidad -> Manzanillo -> Boca de Iguanas

Collectively (and independently) we’ve all decided that we have had enough of Barre De Navidad.

We take a quick stroll around town looking for desayuno – or just coffee for God’s sake – but there is none to be had. Town is quiet and peaceful.

Speed check out of the Bel Aires has us back on the road headed south to the port town of Mananillo (*not* to be confused with it’s prettier cousin La Manzanilla to the north).

Manzanillo is a commercial port and also a port of call for big cruise ships. The centro is compact and attractive for a big city, with houses built on steep terraces extending up the hillsides.

We shop for a bit amongst throngs of tourists buying trinkets made of shells and plastic and most likely made in China. A very strange scene. Manage to sample some tamarindo candy which I can honestly say is one of the few things I’ve every tasted that I just couldn’t stand.

Drive back to La Manzanilla for lunch. Lots of houses for sale in both this area and Boca de Iguanas – some very cool houses, too.

Filete de pescado served in the empanizado style on the beach and some reprovisioning, we decide to do what cannot be done – we decide to return to Boca de Iguanas to recpature the magic.

It’s every bit as good and deserted as the first night. A few languid hours are spent on the beach followed by a few hours in the water riding some crashy, brutal waves.