Sayulita, beach haven

Up early again after a great night’s sleep.

Coffee at the (new) espresso place then off to look at the surf.

Take an early morning surf session before things get too crowded. Beautiful, soft, forgiving. Lots of fish and many sting rays in the water…

Desayuno at Choco bananas then a quick checkout. Day is spent lolling onthe beach under an umbrella, spending the last of our pesos on cervezas heladas and watching the groms surf. Drove back to P.V. in the late afternoon. Such a huge shock after the venues of the previous week.

Sayulita, like P.V., is completely overrun with gringos. But it’s an entirely different world there.

Dinner at a restaurant on the beach after a brief walk around P.V…. the trip definitely feels like its over. :(

Playa de Gafas Perdidos

Up way before dawn. Sat on the beach to watch the day appear. The beach is pitted with crab burrow bomb craters, 9/10 of which face the shore, 1/10 inland. Hmm…

Yoga sun salutations followed by a fun boogie boarding session with some big, BIG closing waves. One of which displaced my glasses which were gone instantly.

Due to this we rename Boca de Iguanas, “Playa de Gafas Perdidos”, or G.P. for short. Sigh.

Hop on the road heading north toward Puerto Vallarta. So sad to have stopped our southern migration. Quickstop at Tomatlan for pollo asado, the first of the trip. There is deathly ill looking cat laying in near our table. I hope it isn’t a sign.

Arrive in the quaint yet heavily gringo-ized town of Sayulita around 4 PM. Find a nice but precious B+B right in town ~ $140 USD/night.

Showers/beers then fish tacos by the central square. I can see myself kicking it here for awhile. ¿Es possible?

They were there…

A little vignette from Boca de Iguanas, inspired by a couple camped at Boca…

They were there they day we arrived and they were there the day we left. They are probably still there as far as I know.

I could never tell if they were natives or fellow travellers. All I really knew is that they had what we all wanted. We gradually came to know them, not by name, and not even by face. Chance encounters in the local market barely evoked even a glimmer of recognition. Oh but I knew them.

You CAN go back

Barre de Navidad -> Manzanillo -> Boca de Iguanas

Collectively (and independently) we’ve all decided that we have had enough of Barre De Navidad.

We take a quick stroll around town looking for desayuno – or just coffee for God’s sake – but there is none to be had. Town is quiet and peaceful.

Speed check out of the Bel Aires has us back on the road headed south to the port town of Mananillo (*not* to be confused with it’s prettier cousin La Manzanilla to the north).

Manzanillo is a commercial port and also a port of call for big cruise ships. The centro is compact and attractive for a big city, with houses built on steep terraces extending up the hillsides.

We shop for a bit amongst throngs of tourists buying trinkets made of shells and plastic and most likely made in China. A very strange scene. Manage to sample some tamarindo candy which I can honestly say is one of the few things I’ve every tasted that I just couldn’t stand.

Drive back to La Manzanilla for lunch. Lots of houses for sale in both this area and Boca de Iguanas – some very cool houses, too.

Filete de pescado served in the empanizado style on the beach and some reprovisioning, we decide to do what cannot be done – we decide to return to Boca de Iguanas to recpature the magic.

It’s every bit as good and deserted as the first night. A few languid hours are spent on the beach followed by a few hours in the water riding some crashy, brutal waves.